‘Every Culinary Artist Should Train At This Spot’: Modest Turkish Restaurant Secures Fourth on List of London’s Best Restaurants.
When assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known award-winning names. But, nestled near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.
A Surprise Recognition
The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the proprietors completely astonished.
“I’m totally astonished,” says a proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest shop earning such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.
A Appeal of Modesty
The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has kept much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.
A Signature Dish: Tantuni
In the end, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.
It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.
It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.
Other Than the Basic Tantuni
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet profile.
Rising Above the Giants
Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.
A Philosophy of Heart
It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.
“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.
The Journey of Perseverance
Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.
Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.
“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.
A Accomplishment for the Community
The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.